"Bark! Bark!  Bark!"
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

Some canine behavior problems, such as house soiling, affect only a dog's owners. However, problems such as escaping and excessive barking can result in neighborhood disputes and violations of animal control ordinances.  Therefore, barking dogs can become "people problems."  If your dog's barking has created neighborhood tension, it might be a good idea to discuss the problem with your neighbors.  It's perfectly normal and reasonable for dogs to bark from time to time, just as children make noise when they play outside.  However, continual barking for long periods of time is a sign that your dog has a problem that needs to be addressed. 

The first thing you need to do is determine when and for how long your dog barks, and what's causing him to bark.  You may need to do some detective work to obtain this information, especially if the barking occurs when you're not home.  Ask your neighbors, drive or walk around the block and watch and listen for a while, or start a tape recorder or video camera when you leave for work. Hopefully, you'll be able to discover which of the common problems discussed below is the cause of your dog's barking.

Social Isolation/Frustration/Attention-Seeking:

Your dog may be barking because he's bored and lonely if:

    He's left alone for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with you.

    His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.

    He's a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and doesn't have other outlets for his energy.

    He's a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs a "job" to be happy.

Recommendations:

Expand your dog's world and increase his "people time" in the following ways:

     Walk your dog daily - it's good exercise, both mental and physical.

     Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice with him as often as possible.

     Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks and practice them every day for five to ten minutes. 

     Take an obedience class with your dog.   

     Provide interesting toys to keep your dog busy when you're not home (Kong-type toys filled with treats or busy-box toys).  Rotating the toys makes them seem new and interesting (see our handout:  "Dog Toys and How to Use Them").

     If your dog is barking to get your attention, make sure he has sufficient time with you on a daily basis (petting, grooming, playing, exercising) so he doesn't have to resort to misbehaving to get your attention.

     Keep your dog inside when you're unable to supervise him.

     Let your neighbors know that you're actively working on the problem.

     Take your dog to work with you every now and then, if possible.

     When you have to leave your dog for extended periods of time, take him to a "doggie day care" or have a friend or neighbor walk and/or play with him.

Territorial/Protective Behavior:

Your dog may be barking to guard his territory if:

v    The barking occurs in the presence of "intruders," which may include the mail carrier, children walking to school and other dogs or neighbors in adjacent yards.

v    Your dog's posture while he's barking appears threatening – tail held high and ears up and forward.

v    You've encouraged your dog to be responsive to people and noises outside.

Recommendations:

     Teach your dog a "quiet" command.  When he begins to bark at a passer-by, allow two or three barks, then say "quiet" and interrupt his barking by shaking a can filled with pennies or squirting water at his mouth with a spray bottle or squirt gun.  This will cause him to stop barking momentarily. While he's quiet, say "good quiet" and pop a tasty treat into his mouth.  Remember, the loud noise or squirt isn't meant to punish him, rather it's to startle him into being quiet so you can reward him.  If your dog is frightened by the noise or squirt bottle, find an alternative method of interrupting his barking (throw a toy or ball toward him). 

     Desensitize your dog to the stimulus that triggers the barking. Teach him that the people he views as intruders are actually friends and that good things happen to him when these people are around.  Ask someone to walk by your yard, starting far enough away so that your dog isn't barking, then reward him for quiet behavior as he obeys a "sit" or "down" command.  Use a very special food reward such as little pieces of cheese or meat.  As the person gradually comes closer, continue to reward his quiet behavior. It may take several sessions before the person can come close without your dog barking.  When the person can come very close without your dog barking, have them feed him a treat or throw a toy for him.

     If your dog barks while inside the house when you're home, call him to you, have him obey a command, such as "sit" or "down," and reward him with praise and a treat.

     Don't inadvertently encourage this type of barking by enticing your dog to bark at things he hears or sees outside.

     Have your dog neutered (or spayed if your dog is a female) to decrease territorial behavior.

Fears And Phobias:

Your dog's barking may be a response to something he's afraid of if:

    The barking occurs when he's exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms firecrackers or construction equipment. 

    Your dog's posture indicates fear – ears back, tail held low.

Recommendations:

     Identify what's frightening your dog and desensitize him to it (see our handout:  "Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises").  You may need professional help with the desensitization process. Check with your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication while you work on behavior modification.

     Mute noise from outside by leaving your dog in a basement or windowless bathroom and leave on a television, radio or loud fan.  Block off your dog's access to outdoor views that might be causing a fear response, by closing curtains or doors to certain rooms.

Separation Anxiety

Your dog may be barking due to separation anxiety if:

     The barking occurs only when you're gone and starts as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.

     Your dog displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, frantic greetings or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave.

     Your dog has recently experienced:  a change in the family's schedule that results in his being left alone more often; a move to a new house; the death or loss of a family member or another family pet; or a period at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.

Recommendations:

     Separation anxiety can be resolved using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques (see our handout:  "Separation Anxiety").

Bark Collars:

Bark collars are specially designed to deliver an aversive whenever your dog barks.  There are several different kinds of bark collars:

     Citronella Collar:  This collar contains a reservoir of citronella solution that sprays into your dog's face every time he barks. A citronella collar is considered humane and a recent study reported an 88% rate of success with the use of this collar.  One possible drawback is that the collar contains a microphone, so the aversive is delivered in response to the sound of the bark.  Therefore, other noises may set off the collar, causing your dog to be sprayed even if he hasn't barked.  Also, some dogs can tell when the citronella reservoir is empty and will resume barking.

     Aversive Sound Collar:  Thiscollar emits a high-frequency sound when your dog barks.  Some are activated by the noise of the bark, while others are hand-held and activated by a handler. The rate of success for this type of collar is reportedly rather low.

     Electric Shock Collar:  We don't recommend an electric shock collar to control your dog's barking.  The electric shock is painful to your dog and many dogs will choose to endure the pain and continue barking.  The success rate of this type of collar is less than 50%. 

The main drawback of any bark collar is that it doesn't address the underlying cause of the barking.  You may be able to eliminate the barking, but symptom substitution may occur and your dog may begin digging, escaping, or become destructive or even aggressive.  The use of a bark collar must be in conjunction with behavior modification based on the reason for the barking, as outlined above.  You should never use a bark collar on your dog if his barking is due to separation anxiety, fears or phobias, because punishment always makes fear and anxiety behaviors worse.

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Keeping Your Dog Confined To Your Property
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

We recommend that you keep your dog indoors, unless you're present to supervise his time outside.  Dogs are "pack animals" and need to socialize with you and the world around them.  By walking your dog regularly (at least twice a day), you can provide him with the exercise and mental stimulation he needs.

If there are times when you must leave your dog outside, keep him in a securely fenced yard to prevent him from straying. Within the safe confines of your yard, he should have access to adequate shelter from rain, snow, severe winds and other inclement weather.  You may also consider providing him with a covered dog "run" or pen with a doghouse inside.  This is a good alternative if you're unable to fence your yard, or if your dog is apt to escape from your yard by jumping the fence.

We don't recommend that you chain or tie your dog up to prevent him from wandering off.  A chained or tied up dog is likely to become frustrated, which could lead to destructive and/or aggressive behavior.  He could also become entangled in his chain, rope or leash and, as a result, severely injure himself.

However, if you feel you must chain or tie up your dog, then use a "dog trolley."  You can construct one by sliding a ring onto heavy wire or rope and fasten the ends between two posts or trees.  Then, connect your dog's lead to the ring. Make sure the lead is short enough to avoid tangling, yet long enough to allow your dog to lie down.  The trolley may either be overhead or on the ground. Provide at least 15 feet of clear space for your dog to move around in and be sure to remove any objects or debris that could cause him to become entangled or injured.  Don't secure the dog trolley near stairways, fences, decks or porches, and make sure it's a safe distance from all possible "escape routes." When using a dog trolley, don't ever use a choke chain collar, but use a leather or nylon harness instead.  Don't leave your dog chained outside for extended periods of time. 

California law requires you to make sure your dog has access to appropriate shelter, clean water at all times, and food, if necessary.

It's best to provide your dog with a tip-proof water bowl or place the bowl in an area where it won't get knocked over. You can dig a hole and place the bowl at ground level, which will not only keep it from being knocked over, but will keep the water cool as well.  You'll also want to provide your dog with safe toys that are appropriate for his size (see our handout:  "Dog Toys and How to Use Them").

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Children And Dogs:  Important Information For Parents
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

Living with a pet can be beneficial to children.  Pets can enhance a child's self-esteem, teach them responsibility and help them to learn empathy.  However, children and dogs are not always going to automatically start off with a wonderful relationship.  Parents must be willing to teach the dog and the child acceptable limits of behavior in order to make their interactions pleasant and safe.  

Selecting A Dog:
What age is best?  Many people have a "warm fuzzy" image of a puppy and a child growing up together.  If you have a young child and are thinking of adopting a puppy (less than one year old) there are a few things you need to consider.

Time and energy: 
Puppies require a lot of time, patience, training and supervision.  They also require socialization in order to become well-adjusted adult dogs.  This means they need to be taken places and exposed to new things and new people.  If you have a young child who already requires a lot of care and time, will you have enough time to care for a puppy, as well?

Safety: 
Puppies, because they're babies, are somewhat fragile creatures.  A puppy may become frightened, or even injured, by a well-meaning, curious child who wants to constantly pick him up, hug him or explore his body by pulling on his tail or ears. 

Rough play: 
Puppies have sharp teeth and claws with which they may inadvertently injure a small child.  Puppies also tend to jump up on small children and knock them down.  All interactions between your child and puppy will need to be closely supervised in order to minimize the chances of either being injured.

Advantages of getting an adult dog: 
Adult dogs require less time and attention once they've adjusted to your family and household routine, although you'll still need to spend time helping your new dog with the transtion to his new home.  You can better gauge how hardy and tolerant an adult dog will be of childish enthusiasm and you can work with your local animal shelter to adopt a dog with a history of getting along well with children.  As a general rule, if your child is under six years old, it's best to adopt a dog that's over two years old.  Although puppies can be a lot of fun, and it's exciting and rewarding to help them grow into wonderful companions, they do require significantly more time to train and supervise than an adult dog.

What breed is best? 
Although some general statements can be made about specific dog breeds, the characteristics of an individual dog are just as important as a dog's breed. 

Size: 
Small breeds of dogs, such as toy or miniature poodles, chihuahuas or cocker spaniels, may not be good choices for a young child.  These small breed dogs are more easily injured than larger dogs and may be more easily frightened by a lot of activity, loud noises and by being picked up and fondled frequently. Frightened dogs tend to snap or bite in order to protect themselves.  Larger dogs may be better able to tolerate the activity, noise and rough play that is an inevitable part of living with children. 

Breed type: 
Some of the sporting breeds, such as labradors and golden retrievers, make good pets for families with children. Breeds that have been selected for protective behavior, such as chows and rottweilers, may not be as good for families with children.  It's sometimes difficult for this type of dog to comfortably tolerate the many comings and goings of children and their friends, who may be perceived as territorial intruders.  Herding breeds are inclined to "herd" children, chasing and nipping at their heels.

Who Will Care For The Dog?
It's unrealistic to expect a child, regardless of age, to have sole responsibility for caring for a dog.  Not only do dogs need basic things like food, water and shelter, they also need to be played with, exercised and trained on a consistent basis.  Teaching a dog the rules of the house and helping him become a good companion is too overwhelming a task for a young child.  While responsible teenagers may be up to the task, they may not be willing to spend an adequate amount of time with the dog, as their desire to be with their friends usually takes over at this age.  If you're adopting a dog "for the kids," you must be prepared and willing to be the dog's primary caretaker.

Starting Off Right:
Following are some guidelines to help you start off on the right foot. Remember, small children should never be left alone with a dog or puppy without adult supervision.

Holding: 
       It's safest for both your child and puppy if your child is sitting down whenever he wants to hold the puppy.  Puppies are squirmy and wiggly and may easily fall out of a young child's arms and be injured.  If held insecurely, a puppy may become frightened and snap or scratch in response.  After your child is sitting, you can place the puppy in his arms. 

       Have your child offer the puppy a chew toy while he pets the puppy.  When puppies are teething, they tend to chew on everything, including hands and arms, so having a chew toy handy will divert the puppy's teeth away from your child. An added benefit is that the puppy will come to associate pleasant consequences (getting a treat) with being held by your child. 

       For larger dogs, have your child sit in your lap and let the dog approach both of you. This way you can control your child and not allow him to get "carried away" with pats that are too rough. You are also there to teach your new dog to treat your child gently.*

 Petting and giving affection:  
Children often want to hug dogs around the neck.  Your dog may view this as a threatening gesture, rather than an affectionate one, and may react with a growl, snap or bite.  You should teach your child to pet your dog from underneath the dog's chin, rather than hugging him or reaching over his head.  You should also teach your child to avoid staring at, or looking directly into, your dog's eyes. 

Giving Treats: 
Children tend to become somewhat fearful and anxious when a dog tries to take a treat from their hand.  This causes them to jerk their hand away at the last second.  The dog may then jump up or lunge to get the treat which may result in the child being knocked down.  Have your child place the treat in an open palm, rather than holding it in his fingers. You may want to place a hand underneath your child's hand to help guide him.

Supervising Play: 
Children move with quick, jerky movements, have high-pitched voices and often run, rather than walk.  All of these behaviors somewhat resemble the behavior of prey animals.  Almost all of a dog's play behaviors are based on predatory behavior. Consequently, your dog may respond to your child's behavior by chasing him, nipping at his heels, jumping up at him or even trying to knock him down.

At first, your child may need to play quietly around your new dog until he becomes more comfortable and calm and your child has gained more control over the dog.  Your dog must also learn that certain behaviors on his part are unacceptable, but he must also be taught what behaviors are the right ones.  Our handout:  "Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior:  Nipping and Rough Play" outlines procedures for discouraging rough play and encouraging appropriate play.  However, most children under the age of ten are not capable of carrying out these procedures, so it's helpful to teach your dog a "leave it" command that you can use when play gets too rough.  Taking an obedience class together is a good way to teach your dog to respond to commands.

An approach that is not helpful is to punish your dog for his behavior.  If he learns that being around children always results in "bad things" happening to him, he may become defensive in their presence.

Possessions: 
Your dog won't know the difference between his toys and your child's toys until you teach him. 

       Your child must take responsibility for keeping his playthings out of your dog's reach.

       If, and only if, you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then give him an acceptable chew toy and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.

       Don't give your dog objects to play with such as old socks, old shoes or old children's toys that closely resemble items that are off-limits.  They can't tell the difference!

       Dogs can be possessive about their food, toys and space.  Although it's normal for a dog to growl or snap to protect these items, it's not acceptable.  At the same time, children need to learn to respect their dog as a living creature who is not to be teased or purposefully hurt and who needs time to himself .

If your dog is growling or snapping at your child for any reason, the situation needs IMMEDIATE attention. Punishing your dog is likely to make matters worse.  You may call us at (916) 782-7722  for more information.

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Canine Rivalry
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

 What Is Canine Rivalry?
Canine rivalry refers to repeated conflicts between dogs living in the same household.  Animals that live in social groups establish a social structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy.  This dominance hierarchy normally serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among group members.  Conflicts arise between household dogs when there is instability in the hierarchy, that is, when the ranking or social position of each dog is not clear or is in contention. Initially, dogsmay only snarl, growl or snap without injuring each other. Sometimes, however, the conflict may intensify into prolonged bouts of dangerous fighting which may result in one or both dogs being injured. 

 Getting Professional Help:
Ongoing canine rivalry is potentially dangerous since the dogs could be severely injured, as well as family members, if they become the object of redirected aggression when the dogs are fighting.  Because resolving rivalry problems requires managing the dogs' somewhat complex social behaviors, it's often necessary for owners to obtain assistance from a professional animal behaviorist (see our handout:  "A Guide to Finding Professional Help for Animal Behavior Problems").  Animal behaviorists are trained to observe, interpret and modify animal behavior.

Why Conflict Occurs:
Conflicts* between household dogs usually develop when the ranking of each dog is not clear or is in contention.  This may occur if:

    You attempt to treat both dogs equally, rather than supporting the dominant dog's position.

    You interrupt or interfere with the dominant dog's ability to control the preferred items (food, toys, beds, attention) in his environment by giving preferential treatment to the subordinate dog(s).

    You prevent the dogs from expressing the signals and ritualized behaviors that establish dominance.

    A new animal has been introduced into the house.

    A resident animal has died or no longer lives in the house.

    A resident animal is re-introduced after an absence.

    A young, subordinate dog reaches social maturity (usually between ten months and two years of age).

    A dominant dog ages and cannot maintain his dominant status.

Understanding Dominance Behavior And Social Structure:
You cannot choose which dog you want to be dominant.  The dogs will establish this among themselves, and any attempt to interfere may result in increased conflict.  Where each dog ranks in the dominance hierarchy is determined by the outcomes of interactions between the dogs themselves.

    Determining which dog is dominant:  Individual personality, as well as breed characteristics, are important factors. The dog that demands to be fed first, petted first and through the door first is usually the dominant dog.  Remember that the rankings may be different in different contexts (one dog may control food, while another may control resting places) and they may change over time.

    How dominance is established:  Dogs usually establish their dominance hierarchies through a series of ritualized behaviors that include body postures and vocalizations that don't result in injury. One dog may "stand over" another by placing his paws or neck on the shoulders of the other.  However, because of past experiences, inadequate socialization or genetic temperament tendencies some dogs  may, with very little warning, escalate dominance displays into aggression.  If this occurs, call us at (916) 782-7722, or your veterinarian for a referral to a professional animal behaviorist.

Dealing With Rivalry Problems:
    If the dogs involved are intact males or females, spay or neuter both dogs.

    Determine each dog's dominance status relative to each other. Remember, this ranking is based on the behavior of the dogs, and notwhat ranking you prefer.

    Support the dominance hierarchy.  You need to support whatever dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" your dogs establish for themselves.  Don't undermine their hierarchy by attempting to treat them equally or by preventing the dominant dog from asserting his position.  Dominant dogs can, and should, be allowed to take toys away from subordinate dogs, to push in to receive attention and petting from the owner, to control favorite sleeping places, toys and other valuable resources (from the dogs' point of view).  Support the dominant dog's status by allowing this to occur.

    Make sure that all of the humans in your household occupy the top of the dominance hierarchy by practicing "Nothing in Life is Free" (see our handout:  "Nothing in Life is Free").  This provides stability at the top of the dominance hierarchy, which will help the dogs sort out their lower places in the pecking order more peacefully.

    Never, under any circumstances, attempt to break up a fight between dogs by grabbing their collars or inserting any of your body parts between them.  If you feel you must break up a fight between dogs, do so by squirting them with a hose (outdoors), or squirting them with a vinegar/water mixture from a squirt bottle (indoors).

    With the help of a professional animal behaviorist, elicit and reinforce non-aggressive behaviors using counter conditioning and desensitization techniques.  These procedures must be designed and tailored to specifically meet the needs of each individual case and require professional in-home help.

    You should be aware that if you respond to this type of problem inappropriately, you run the risk of intensifying the problem and potentially causing injury to either yourself, your dogs or both.

Punishment Will Not Solve The Problem:
Punishment can actually make the problem worse.  We encourage you to seek assistance from your veterinarian regarding: spaying and neutering your pet; evaluating the health status of your dogs; and for a referral to a professional animal behaviorist. Rivalry and fighting problems can usually be resolved so that you and your dogs can live together in peace.

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Introducing Your New Dog To Your Resident Dog
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

Animals that live in groups, like dogs, establish a social structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy.  This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members.  Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against intruders or rivals.  This social and territorial nature affects their behavior when a new dog is introduced to their household.

Introduction Techniques:
v    Choose A Neutral Location:  Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder.  Each dog should be handled by a separate person.  With both dogs on a leash, take them to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park or a neighbor's yard.  If you frequently walk your resident dog in a park near your house, she may view that park as her territory, so choose another site that's unfamiliar to her.  We recommend bringing your resident dog with you to the shelter and introducing the dogs before adopting the new dog. 

v    Use Positive Reinforcement:  From the first meeting, you want both dogs to expect "good things" to happen when they're in each other's presence.  Let them sniff each other, which is normal canine greeting behavior.  As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice - never use a threatening tone of voice.  Don't allow them to investigate and sniff each other for a prolonged time, as this may escalate to an aggressive response.  After a short time, get both dogs' attention, and give each dog a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or "stay."  Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals.  Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards and simple commands.

v    Be Aware Of Body Postures:  One body posture that indicates things are going well is a "play-bow."  One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air.  This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on the other dog's back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff legged gait or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting each dog interested in something else.  For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down and reward each with a treat.  The dogs will become interested in the treats which will prevent the situation from escalating into aggression.  Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.

v    Taking The Dogs Home:  When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same, or different vehicles, will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been and how many dogs are involved.

v    If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time.  Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer.

Introducing Puppies To Adult Dogs:
Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully.  Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they've had enough.  Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a growl or snarl.  These behaviors are normal and should be allowed.  Adult dogs that aren't well-socialized, or that have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy.  For this reason, a puppy shouldn't be left alone with an adult dog until you're confident the puppy isn't in any danger.  Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and perhaps, some individual attention as described above.

When To Get Help:
If the introduction of a new dog to a household doesn't go smoothly, contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately.  Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve.  Conflicts between dogs in the same family can often be resolved with professional help.  Punishment won't work and could make things worse.

See Our Handouts 

"A Guide to Finding Professional Help for Animal Behavior Problems"

"Explaining Canine Rivalry"

"Understanding Aggressive Behavior in Dogs"

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Dog Toys And How To Use Them
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

"Safe" Toys:
There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy.  Many of those factors, however, are completely dependent upon your dog's size, activity level and personal preference.  Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your dog spends his time.  Although we can't guarantee your dog's enthusiasm or his safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

Be Cautious:
The things that are usually the most attractive to dogs are often the very things that are the most dangerous.  Dog-proof your home by checking for:  string, ribbon, rubber bands, children's toys, pantyhose and anything else that could be ingested.

Toys should be appropriate for your dog's current size.  Balls and other toys that are too small can easily be swallowed or become lodged in your dog's mouth or throat.

Avoid or alter any toys that aren't "dog-proof" by removing ribbons, strings, eyes or other parts that could be chewed and/or ingested.  Avoid any toy that starts to break into pieces or have pieces torn off. You should also avoid "tug-of-war" toys, unless they'll be used between dogs, not between people and dogs.

Ask your veterinarian about which rawhide toys are safe and which aren't.  Unless your veterinarian says otherwise, "chewies" like hooves, pig's ears and rawhides, should be supervision-only goodies. Very hard rubber toys are safer and last longer.

Take note of any toy that contains a "squeaker" buried in its center.  Your dog may feel that he must find and destroy the squeak-source and could ingest it, in which case squeaking objects should be "supervision only" toys.

Check labels for child safety, as a stuffed toy that's labeled as safe for children under three years old, doesn't contain dangerous fillings.  Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads, however, even a "safe" stuffing isn't truly digestible.

Remember that soft toys are not indestructible, but some are sturdier than others.  Soft toys should be machine washable.

Toys We Recommend

Active Toys:
      Very hard rubber toys, like Nylabone-type products and Kong-type products.  These are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and are fun for chewing and for carrying around.

      "Rope" toys that are usually available in a "bone" shape with knotted ends.

      Tennis balls make great dog toys, but keep an eye out for any that could be chewed through and discard them.

Distraction Toys:
      Kong-type toys, especially when filled with broken-up treats or, even better, a mixture of broken-up treats and peanut butter. The right size Kong can keep a puppy or dog busy for hours.  Only by chewing diligently can your dog access the treats, and then only in small bits - very rewarding!  Double-check with your veterinarian about whether or not you should give peanut butter to your dog.

      "Busy-box" toys are large rubber cubes with hiding places for treats.  Only by moving the cube around with his nose, mouth and paws, can your dog access the goodies.

Comfort Toys:
      Soft stuffed toys are good for several purposes, but aren't appropriate for all dogs.  For some dogs, the stuffed toy should be small enough to carry around. For dogs that want to shake or "kill" the toy, it should be the size that "prey" would be for that size dog (mouse-size, rabbit-size or duck-size).

      Dirty laundry, like an old t-shirt, pillowcase, towel or blanket, can be very comforting to a dog, especially if it smells like you!  Be forewarned that the item could be destroyed by industrious fluffing, carrying and nosing.

Get The Most Out Of Toys!
    Rotate your dog's toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time.  Keep a variety of types easily accessible.  If your dog has a huge favorite, like a soft "baby," you should probably leave it out all the time, or risk the wrath of your dog!

    Provide toys that offer a variety of uses - at least one toy to carry, one to "kill", one to roll and one to "baby."

    "Hide and Seek" is a fun game for dogs to play. "Found" toys are often much more attractive than a toy which is blatantly introduced.  Making an interactive game out of finding toys or treats is a good "rainy-day" activity for your dog, using up energy without the need for a lot of space.

    Many of your dog's toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your dog because he needs active "people time."  By focusing on a specific task, like repeatedly returning a ball, Kong or Frisbee, or playing "hide-and-seek" with treats or toys, your dog can expel pent-up mental and physical energy in a limited amount of time and space.  This greatly reduces stress due to confinement, isolation and/or boredom.  For young, high-energy and untrained dogs, interactive play also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior with people and with other animals, like jumping up or being mouthy.

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Understanding Aggressive Behavior In Dogs
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

 Dog aggression is any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping and biting are all aggressive behaviors.  Although aggressive behaviors are normal for dogs, they're generally unacceptable to humans.  From a dog's perspective, there's always a reason for aggressive behavior.  Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species.  A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating.  Dogs aren't schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious," when displaying aggressive behavior. 

Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.  Our Behavior Helpline can't assist you with aggressive behavior problems (see our handout:  "When The Behavior Helpline Can't Help").

Types Of Aggression
Dominance Aggression:  Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction.  Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack."  Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established (see our handout:  "Dealing With Dominance In Dogs").

If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, it's likely that he'll challenge you in certain situations.  Because people don't always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position.  A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping, or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed.  Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner, like hugging, may also cause your dog to respond aggressively.  Reaching for your dog's collar, or reaching out over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted by him as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged.  Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals.  The most common reason for dogs in the same family to fight with each other is instability in the dominance hierarchy (see our handout:  "Canine Rivalry").

Fear-Motivated Aggression:  Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it's your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog's response.  For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog, perceiving this to be a threat, may bite you because he believes he is protecting himself from being hit.  A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs.

Protective, Territorial And Possessive Aggression:  Protective, territorial and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources.  Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property.  However, your dog's sense of territory may extend well past the boundaries of "his" yard.  For example, if you walk your dog regularly around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, to him, his territory may be the entire block!  Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals that a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack.  Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys or other valued objects, such as Kleenex stolen from the trash!

Redirected Aggression:  This type of aggression is relatively common, but is a behavior that pet owners may not always understand. If a dog is aroused into an aggressive response by a person or animal that he is prevented from attacking, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else.  A common example occurs when two family dogs become excited, bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard.  The two dogs, confined behind a fence, may turn and attack each other because they can't attack the intruder.  Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior, because it's motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate.

Individual Variation

Dogs differ in their likelihood to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation.  Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events, and never attempt to bite.  The difference in this threshold at which a dog displays aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors.  If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively.  This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques. How easily the threshold can be changed is influenced by the dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and by whether the appropriate behavior modification techniques are chosen and correctly implemented.  Working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, and should be done only by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior.

What You Can Do:
    First check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior.

    Seek professional help.  An aggression problem will not go away by itself.  Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist.

    Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep everyone safe. Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog's activities until you can obtain professional help.  You're liable for your dog's behavior.  If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and keep in mind that some dogs can get a muzzle off.

    Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression.  You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his people-contact.

    If your dog is possessive of food, treats or a certain place, don't allow him access to those items.  In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has.   For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.

    Spay or neuter your dog.   Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial and protective aggressive behavior.

What Not To Do
    Punishment won't help and, in fact, will make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog is likely to cause him to escalate his behavior in order to retain his dominant position.  This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack.  Punishing territorial, possessive or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression. 

    Don't encourage aggressive behavior.  Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages your dog to attempt to "best" you or "win" over you, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem.   When dogs are encouraged to "go get 'em" or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or at the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behavior may be the result.

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Dealing With Dominance In Dogs
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

What does "dominance" mean?In order to understand why your dog is acting "dominant," it's important to know some things about canine social systems.  Animals who live in social groups, including domestic dogs and wolves, establish a social structure called a dominance hierarchy within their group. This hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among group members.  A position within the dominance hierarchy is established by each member of the group, based on the outcomes of interactions between themselves and the other pack members.  The more dominant animals can control access to valued items such as food, den sites and mates.  For domestic dogs, valued items might be food, toys, sleeping or resting places, as well as attention from their owner.

In order for your home to be a safe and happy place for pets and people, it's best that the humans in the household assume the highest positions in the dominance hierarchy.   Most dogs assume a neutral or submissive role toward people, but some dogs will challenge their owners for dominance.  A dominant dog may stare, bark, growl, snap or even bite when you give him a command or ask him to give up a toy, treat or resting place.  Sometimes even hugging, petting or grooming can be interpreted as gestures of dominance and, therefore, provoke a growl or snap because of the similarity of these actions to behaviors that are displayed by dominant dogs. Nevertheless, a dominant dog may still be very affectionate and may even solicit petting and attention from you. 

You may have a dominance issue with your dog if:
    He resists obeying commands that he knows well.

    He won't move out of your way when required.

    He nudges your hand, takes you're arm in his mouth or insists on being petted or played with (in other words, ordering you to obey him).

    He defends his food bowl, toys or other objects from you.

    He growls or bares his teeth at you under any circumstances.

    He won't let anyone (you, the vet, the groomer) give him medication or handle him.

    He gets up on furniture without permission and won't get down.

    He snaps at you.

What to do if you recognize signs of dominance in your dog:
If you recognize the beginning signs of dominance aggression in your dog, you should immediately consult an animal behavior specialist.  No physical punishment should be used.  Getting physical with a dominant dog may cause the dog to intensify his aggression, posing the risk of injury to you.  With a dog that has shown signs of dominance aggression, you should always take precautions to ensure the safety of your family and others who may encounter your dog by:

    Avoiding situations that elicit the aggressive behavior.

    During the times your dog is acting aggressively, back off and use "happy talk" to relieve the tenseness of the situation.

    Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog's activities as necessary, especially when children or other pets are present. 

    When you're outdoors with your dog, use a "Gentle Leader" or muzzle.

    When you're indoors with your dog, control access to the entire house by using baby gates and/or by crating your dog.  You can also use a cage-type muzzle, or a "Gentle Leader" and leash, but only when you can closely supervise your dog.

Dominance aggression problems are unlikely to go away without your taking steps to resolve them.  Treatment of dominance aggression problems should always be supervised by an animal behavior specialist, since dominant aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous.

The following techniques (which don't require a physical confrontation with your dog) can help you gain some control:
    Spay or neuter your dog to reduce hormonal contributions to aggression.  NOTE:  After a mature animal has been spayed or neutered, it may take time for those hormones to clear from the system.  Also, long-standing behavior patterns may continue even after the hormones or other causes no longer exist.

    "Nothing in Life is Free" is a safe, non-confrontational way to establish your leadership and requires your dog to work for everything he gets from you (see our handout:  "Nothing in Life is Free").  Have your dog obey at least one command (such as "sit") before you pet him, give him dinner, put on his leash or throw a toy for him.  If your dog doesn't know any commands or doesn't perform them reliably, you'll first have to teach him, using positive reinforcement, and practice with him daily.  You may need to seek professional help if your dog is not obeying each time you ask after two to three weeks of working on a command.

    Don't feed your dog people food from the table and don't allow begging.

    Don't play "tug of war," wrestle or play roughly with your dog.

    Ignore barking and jumping up.

    Don't allow your dog on the furniture or your bed, as this is a privilege reserved for leaders.  If your dog growls or snaps when you try to remove him from the furniture, use a treat to lure him off.  Otherwise, try to limit his access to your bed and/or furniture by using baby gates, a crate, or by closing doors.

   Always remember to reward good behavior.

   Consult your veterinarian about acupuncture, massage therapy or drug therapy.

   Obedience classes may be helpful in establishing a relationship between you and your dog in which you give commands and he obeys them (be sure to choose a trainer who uses positive reinforcement methods).  Obedience classes alone, however, won't necessarily prevent or reduce dominance aggression.

A Note About Children and Dogs

From your dog's point of view, children, too, have a place in the dominance hierarchy. Because children are smaller and get down on the dog's level to play, dogs often consider them to be playmates, rather than superiors.  Small children and dogs should not be left alone together without adult supervision.  Older children should be taught how to play and interact appropriately and safely with dogs; however, no child should be left alone with a dog who has displayed signs of aggression.

Why Our Behavior Helpline Can't Help:
While it's sometimes possible to successfully resolve aggressive behavior problems related to dominance, this is not a process that can be done by our Behavior Helpline staff and volunteers.  Very detailed questioning in order to obtain a complete behavioral history, plus direct observation of your pet in his own environment, is necessary before recommendations to resolve the problem can be made.  Our Behavior Helpline is limited to telephone assistance (see our handout:  "When the Helpline Can't Help").

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The Educated Dog
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

When you feel frustrated with your dog's behavior, remember that someone must teach a dog what is acceptable behavior and what isnot.  A dog that hasn't been given any instructions, training or boundaries can't possibly know what you expect of him.  By teaching your dog how you want him to behave, you'll not only have a saner household, but a healthier and happier dog as well.

An Educated Dog:
   Allows you to handle every part of his body, to check for injury or illness and to give him medication.

   Has good manners, so he can spend most of his time indoors with his people.  That means more supervision, less boredom and fewer opportunities for dangerous mischief.  The more time you spend with your dog, the more likely you'll be to notice when something is wrong with him, like a limp, a cough, a sensitive area or a loss of appetite.  By recognizing such irregularities early, you can seek medical attention immediately and, hopefully, prevent more serious problems.

   Wants to stay near you, listening for instructions (and praise).  This means he'll have less opportunity to stray into danger.

   Will walk or run beside you on a leash without pulling, dragging or strangling, so you and your dog can get more exercise and spend more time together.

   Knows that "drop it" and "leave it alone" are phrases that mean business, so he'll have fewer opportunities to swallow dangerous objects.  He also can be taught what things and places are out of bounds, like hot stoves, heaters or anxious cats.  However, you'll still need to limit his access to dangerous places when you cannot supervise or instruct him.

   Will "sit" immediately, simply because you say so. No matter what danger may be imminent, a dog that is suddenly still is suddenly safe.  And a dog that will "stay" in that position is even safer.

   Understands his boundaries, knows what's expected of him and has fewer anxieties.  Less stress means a healthier dog.

By training your dog, you can help prevent tragedyand develop a better relationship with him.  Keep in mind, however, that even an educated dog needs supervision, instruction and boundaries -- sometimes even physical boundaries.  Allowing your dog, no matter how educated he may be, to walk, run or roam outside of a fenced area or off of a leash, is putting him in danger. 

Selecting a Class:
We recommend that you check the Yellow Pages under "pet training" or "dog training." Your local park or s,recreation department may also offer classes in your neighborhood. 

Here are some tips to help you select an obedience class that's right for you:

   Good obedience instructors are knowledgeable about many different types of training methods and use techniques that neither the dogs nor their owners find consistently unpleasant.

   Good training methods focus primarily on reinforcing good behavior and use punishment sparingly, appropriately and humanely.  Excessive use of choke chains or pinch collars or using collars to lift dogs off of the ground ("stringing them up") are not appropriate or humane training methods.

   Good obedience instructors communicate well with people and with dogs.  Remember that they're instructing you about how to train your dog.

   Specific problems you may have with your dog may not be addressed in a basic obedience course.  If you're seeking help with house soiling, barking, aggression or separation anxiety, ask if the course covers these issues -- don't assume it will.

   Ask the instructor what training methods are used and how they (the instructor and staff) were trained.  Also ask to observe a class before you commit to one. If you're refused an observation, or if your observation results in anything that makes you uncomfortable, look elsewhere.

   Avoid anyone who:  guarantees their work; whose primary methods focus on punishment; or who want to take your dog and train him for you (effective training must include you and the environment in which you and your dog interact).

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  The Canine Escape Artist
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

Escaping is a serious problem for both you and your dog, as it could have tragic consequences.  If your dog is running loose, he is in danger of being hit by a car, being injured in a fight with another dog, or being hurt in a number of other ways. Additionally, you're liable for any damage or injury your dog may cause and you may be required to pay a fine if he's picked up by an animal control agency.  In order to resolve an escaping problem, you must determine not only how your dog is getting out, but also why he is escaping.

Why Dogs Escape Social Isolation/Frustration:

Your dog may be escaping because he's bored and lonely if:
w     He is left alone for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with you.

w     His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.

w     He is a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and doesn't have other outlets for his energy.

w     He is a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs an active job in order to be happy.

w     The place he goes to when he escapes provides him with interaction and fun things to do.  For example, he goes to play with a neighbor's dog or to the local school yard to play with the children.

Recommendations:
We recommend expanding your dog's world and increasing his "people time" in the following ways:

w     Walk your dog daily.  It's good exercise, both mentally and physically.

w     Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice with him as often as possible.

w     Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks.  Practice these commands and/or tricks every day for five to ten minutes. 

w     Take an obedience class with your dog and practice daily what you've learned. 

w     Provide interesting toys (Kong-type toys filled with treats or busy-box toys) to keep your dog busy when you're not home.

w     Rotate your dog's toys to make them seem new and interesting (see our handout: "Dog Toys and How to Use Them").

w     Keep your dog inside when you're unable to supervise him.

w     If you have to be away from home for extended periods of time, take your dog to work with you or to a "doggie day care," or ask a friend or neighbor to walk your dog.

Sexual Roaming

Dogs become sexually mature at around six months of age.  An intact male dog is motivated by a strong, natural drive to seek out female dogs.  It can be very difficult to prevent an intact dog from escaping, because his motivation to do so is very high.

Recommendations:
w      Have your male dog neutered.  Studies show that neutering will decrease sexual roaming in about 90% of the cases.  If, however, an intact male has established a pattern of escaping, he may continue to do so even after he's neutered, so it's important to have him neutered as soon as possible.

w     Have your female dog spayed.  If your intact female dog escapes your yard while she's in heat, she'll probably get pregnant.  Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every year.  Please don't contribute to the pet overpopulation problem by allowing your female dog to breed indiscriminately.

Fears and Phobias

Your dog may be escaping in response to something he is afraid of if he escapes when he is exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers or construction sounds.

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Helping Your Dog Overcome The Fear Of Thunder And Other Startling Noises
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

It's not uncommon for dogs to be frightened of thunder, firecrackers or other loud sounds. These types of fears may develop even though your dog has had no traumatic experiences associated with the sound.  Many fear-related problems can be successfully resolved.  However, if left untreated, your dog's fearful behavior will probably get worse. 

The most common behavior problems associated with fear of loud noises are destruction and escaping.  When your dog becomes frightened, she tries to reduce her fear. She may try to escape to a place where the sounds of thunder or firecrackers are less intense.  If, by leaving the yard or going into a certain room or area of the house, she feels less afraid, then the escape or destructive behavior is reinforced because it successfully lessens her fear.  For some dogs, just the activity or physical exertion associated with one of  these behaviors may be an outlet for their anxiety.  Unfortunately, escape and/or destructive behavior can be a problem for you and could also result in physical injury to your dog.

Things that are present in the environment whenever your dog hears the startling noise can, from her viewpoint, become associated with the frightening sound.  Over a period of time, she may become afraid of other things in the environment that she associates with the noise that frightens her.  For example, dogs that are afraid of thunder may later become afraid of the wind, dark clouds and flashes of light that often precede the sound of thunder.  Dogs that are afraid of firecrackers may become afraid of the children who have the firecrackers or may become afraid to go in the backyard, if that's where they usually hear the noise.

What You Can Do To Help:
Create A Safe Place:  Try to create a safe place for your dog to go to when she hears the noises that frighten her.  But remember, this must be a safe location from her perspective, not yours.  Notice where she goes, or tries to go, when she's frightened, and if at all possible, give her access to that place.  If she's trying to get inside the house, consider installing a dog door.  If she's trying to get under your bed, give her access to your bedroom.  You can also create a "hidey-hole" that's dark, small and shielded from the frightening sound as much as possible (a fan or radio playing will help block out the sound).  Encourage her to go there when you're home and the thunder or other noise occurs.  Feed her in that location and associate other "good things" happening to her there. She must be able to come and go from this location freely.  Confining her in the "hidey-hole" when she doesn't want to be there will only cause more problems.  The "safe place" approach may work with some dogs, but not all.  Some dogs are motivated to move and be active when frightened and "hiding out" won't help them feel less fearful.

Distract Your Dog: 
This method works best when your dog is just beginning to get anxious.  Encourage her to engage in any activity that captures her attention and distracts her from behaving fearfully.  Start when she first alerts you to the noise and is not yet showing a lot of fearful behavior, but is only watchful.  Immediately try to interest her in doing something that she really enjoys.  Get out the tennis ball and play fetch (in an escape-proof area) or practice some commands that she knows.  Give her a lot of praise and treats for paying attention to the game or the commands. As the storm or the noise builds, you may not be able to keep her attention on the activity, but it might delay the start of the fearful behavior for longer and longer each time you do it. If you can't keep her attention and she begins acting afraid, stop the process.  If you continue, you may inadvertently reinforce her fearful behavior.

Behavior Modification: 
Behavior modification techniques are often successful in reducing fears and phobias.  The appropriate techniques are called "counter-conditioning" and "desensitization."  This means to condition or teach your dog to respond in non-fearful ways to sounds and other stimuli that previously frightened her.  This must be done very gradually.  Begin by exposing her to an intensity level of noise that doesn't frighten her and pair it with something pleasant, like a treat or a fun game.  Gradually increase the volume as you continue to offer her something pleasant.  Through this process, she'll come to associate "good things" with the previously feared sound.

Example:
     Make a tape with firecracker noises on it.

     Play the tape at such a low volume that your dog doesn't respond fearfully.  While the tape is playing, feed her dinner, give her a treat or play her favorite game.

     In your next session, play the tape a little louder while you feed her or play her favorite game.

     Continue increasing the volume through many sessions over a period of several weeks or months.  If at any time while the tape is playing, she displays fearful behavior, STOP.  Begin your next session at a lower volume - one that doesn't produce anxiety - and proceed more slowly. If these techniques aren't used correctly, they won't be successful and can even make the problem worse.

For some fears, it can be difficult to recreate the fear stimulus.  For example, thunder is accompanied by changes in barometric pressure, lightening and rain, and your dog's fearful response may be to the combination of these things and not just the thunder.  You may need professional assistance to create and implement this kind of behavior modification program.

Consult Your Veterinarian: 
Medication may be available which can make your dog less anxious for short time periods.  Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog.  Don't attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting your veterinarian.  Animals don't respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog.  Drug therapy, alone, won't reduce fears and phobias permanently, but in extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together might be the best approach.

What Not To Do:
   Attempting to reassure your dog when she's afraid may reinforce her fearful behavior.  If you pet, soothe or give treats to her when she's behaving fearfully, she may interpret this as a reward for her fearful behavior.  Instead, try to behave normally, as if you don't notice her fearfulness.

   Putting your dog in a crate to prevent her from being destructive during a thunderstorm is not recommended.  She'll still be afraid when she's in the crate and is likely to injure herself, perhaps even severely, while attempting to get out of the crate.

   Don't punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make her more fearful.

   Don't try to force your dog to experience or be close to the sound that frightens her.  Making her stay close to a group of children who are lighting firecrackers will only make her more afraid, and could cause her to become aggressive in an attempt to escape from the situation.

   Obedience classes won't make your dog less afraid of thunder or other noises, but could help boost her general confidence.

These approaches don't work because they don't decrease your dog's fear. Merely trying to prevent her from escaping or being destructive won't work.  If she's still afraid, she'll continue to show that fear in whatever way she can (digging, jumping, climbing, chewing, barking, howling).

Animal Behavior Specialists:
If your dog has severe fears and phobias and you're unable to achieve success with the techniques we've outlined here, you should consult with an animal behavior specialist and your veterinarian.  

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The Fearful Dog
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they're afraid.  A fearful dog will display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs.  He may also pant, salivate, tremble and/or pace.  A frightened dog may try to escape, may show submissive behaviors (avoidance of eye contact, submissive urinating, rolling over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile.  Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear.  In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and, therefore, house soil.

Causes Of Fearful Behavior:
Determining why your dog is fearful isn't always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment.  A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience.  It's essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog's fearful behavior.  Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.

What You Can Do:
Most fears won't go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse.  Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear entirely.  Once medical reasons have been ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog's fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear.  If he is afraid of startling noises see our handout:  "Helping Your Dog Overcome The Fear Of Thunder And Other Startling Noises."  If he is afraid of being left alone, see our handout:  "Separation Anxiety."  Most fears can be treated using desensitization and counter conditioning techniques, which require a lot of time and patience.  You may need help from a professional animal behavior specialist to help you with these techniques (see our handout:  "When The Behavior Helpline Can't Help").

Desensitization:
    Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of whatever it is that's causing his fear.  For example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from your dog. 

    Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in the presence of the bicycle.  Gradually move the bicycle closer to him.  As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise.  If at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace.

When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again, but have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining calm and relaxed.  Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle.

    This process may take several days, weeks or even months.  You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process.

Counter Conditioning:
Counter conditioning works best when used along with desensitization and involves pairing the fear stimulus with an activity or behavior incompatible with the fear behavior. 

    Using the desensitization technique example described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him to perform some obedience exercises, such as "sit" and "down."  Reward him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is moved closer to him. 

    If your dog doesn't know any commands, teach him a few using treats and praise.  Don't ever use punishment, collar corrections or scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of counter conditioning is for him to associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens him.

Realistic Expectations:
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in the light.  During the desensitization process it's impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors.  If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process of desensitization.

When To Get Help:
Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do, and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help from an animal behavior specialist (see our handout:  "When The Behavior Helpline Can't Help").  It's important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive.  Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them (see our handout:  "Understanding Aggression In Dogs").  If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping or baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.

Consult With Your Veterinarian:
Medication may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog.  Don't attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian.  Animals don't respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog.  Drug therapy alone won't reduce fears and phobias permanently.  In extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best approach.

What Not To Do:
    Don't punish your dog for being afraid.  Punishment will only make him more fearful.

    Don't try to force your dog to experience the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid.  For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he'll probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.

    Never punish your dog after the fact for destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear.  Animals don't understand punishment after the fact, even if it's only seconds later.  This kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic, not misbehavior. Punishment will do more harm than good.

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Housetraining YourPuppy
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

Housetraining a puppy requires time, vigilance, patience and commitment.  Following the procedures outlined below, you can minimize house soiling incidents, but virtually every puppy will have an accident in the house (more likely several).  Expect this – it's part of raising a puppy.  The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior. It may take several weeks to housetrain your puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.

Establish A Routine:
·       Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule.  Take your puppy outside frequently, at least every two hours, and immediately after he wakes up from a nap, after playing and after eating.

·      Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors.  You can even give him a treat.  You must praise him and give him a treat immediately after he's finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house.  This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way he'll know that's what you want him to do.

·      Choose a location not too far from the door to be the bathroom spot.  Always take your puppy, on a leash, directly to the bathroom spot.  Take him for a walk or play with him only after he has eliminated.  If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot.  The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate.  While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him of what he's supposed to be doing.

·       If possible, put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day.  Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he'll eliminate at consistent times as well.  This makes housetraining easier for both of you.

Supervise, Supervise, Supervise:
Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house.  He should be watched at all times when he is indoors.  You can tether him to you with a six-foot leash, or use baby gates, to keep him in the room where you are.  Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling.  When you see these signs, immediately take him outside, on a leash, to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.

Confinement:
When you're unable to watch your puppy at all times, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won't want to eliminate there.  It should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down and turn around in.  This area could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room, blocked off with boxes or baby gates.  Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him (see our handout:  "Crate Training Your Dog"). If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, when you let him out, take him directly to his bathroom spot and praise him when he eliminates.

Oops!
Expect your puppy to have an accident in the house – it's a normal part of housetraining a puppy. 

·       When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him, like make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him).  Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there. 

·      Don't punish your puppy for eliminating in the house.  If you find a soiled area, it's too late to administer a correction.  Do nothing but clean it up.  Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other punishment or discipline, will only make him afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence.  Animals don't understand punishment after the fact, even if it's only seconds later.  Punishment will do more harm than good.

·       Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces (see our handout:  "Successful Cleaning to Remove Pet Odors and Stains"). 

It's extremely important that youuse the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to minimize the number of accidents.  If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he'll get confused about where he's supposed to eliminate which will prolong the housetraining process. 

Paper Training
A puppy under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time.  If you have to be away from home for more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. If you're already committed to having a puppy and have to be away from home for long periods of time, you'll need to train your puppy to eliminate in a specific place indoors.  Be aware, however, that doing so can prolong the process of teaching him to eliminate outdoors.  Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that he may, even in adulthood, eliminate on any newspaper he finds lying around the house.

When your puppy must be left alone for long periods of time, confine him to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space and a separate place to eliminate.  In the area designated as the elimination place, you can either use newspapers or a sod box.  To make a sod box, place sod in a container, like a child's small, plastic swimming pool.  You can also find dog litter products at a pet supply store.  If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels, and put them in the designated elimination place.  The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.

Other Types Of House-Soiling Problems
If you've consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior. 

    Medical Problems:  House soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary tract infection or a parasite infection.  Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease or illness.

    Submissive/Excitement Urination: Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened.  This usually occurs during greetings, intense play or when they're about to be punished (see our handout:  "Submissive and Excitement Urination").

    Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit urine or feces, usually in small amounts, to scent-mark their territory.  Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when they believe their territory has been invaded (see our handout: "Territorial Marking Behavior in Dogs and Cats").

    Separation Anxiety. Dogs that become anxious when they're left alone may house soil as a result.  Usually, there are other symptoms, such as destructive behavior or vocalization (see our handout:  "Separation Anxiety").

    Fears Or Phobias. When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels.  If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house soil when he's exposed to these sounds (see our handout: "Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises").

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How to Solve the Digging Problem
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

Digging is a normal behavior for most dogs, but may occur for widely varying reasons.  Your dog may be:

     seeking entertainment

     seeking comfort or protection

     seeking escape

     seeking prey

     seeking attention

Dogs don't dig, however, out of spite, revenge or a desire to destroy your yard. Finding ways to make the area where the dog digs unappealing may be effective, however, it's likely that he'll just begin digging in other locations or display other unacceptable behavior, such as chewing or barking.  A more effective approach is to address the cause of the digging, rather than creating location aversions.

Seeking Entertainment:
Dogs may dig as a form of self-play when they learn that roots and soil "play back."  Your dog may be digging for entertainment if:

    He's left alone in the yard for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with you

    His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys

    He's a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and doesn't have other outlets for his energy

    He's the type of dog (like a terrier) that is bred to dig as part of his "job"

    He's a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs an active job to be happy

    He's recently seen you "playing" in the dirt (gardening or working in the yard)

Recommendations:
We recommend expanding your dog's world and increasing his "people time" the following ways:

      Walk your dog regularly.  It's good exercise, mentally and physically, for both of you!

      Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice with him as often as possible.

      Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks.  Practice these commands/tricks every day for five to ten minutes. 

      Take an obedience class with your dog and practice daily what you've learned. 

      Keep interesting toys in the yard to keep your dog busy even when you're not around (Kong-type toys filled with treats or busy-box toys). Rotating the toys makes them seem new and interesting.

      For dedicated diggers, provide an "acceptable digging area." Choose an area of the yard where it's okay for your dog to dig and cover the area with loose soil or sand. If you catch your dog digging in an unacceptable area, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, say, "no dig" and take the dog to his designated digging area. When he digs in the approved spot, reward him with praise.  Make the unacceptable digging spots unattractive (at least temporarily) by setting sharp rocks or chicken wire into the dirt.

Seeking Prey:
Dogs may try to pursue burrowing animals or insects that live in your yard.  Your dog may be pursuing

prey if:

    The digging is in a very specific area, usually not at the boundaries of the yard

    The digging is at the roots of trees or shrubs

    The digging is in a "path" layout

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