Crate Training Your Dog
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

 Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations.  If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules – like what he can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate.  A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

 Selecting A Crate:
Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens.  They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores.  Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in.

 The Crate Training Process:
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences.  It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training.  The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, andtraining should take place in a series of small steps - don't go too fast.

 Step 1:  Introducing Your Dog To The Crate:
       Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room.  Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate.  Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice.  Make sure the crate door is securely fastened opened so it won't hit your dog and frighten him.

       To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate.  If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay – don't force him to enter.  Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food.  If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate.  This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

 Step 2:  Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate:
       After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.  If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.  If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious.  Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

       Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal.  With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.  If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly.  Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period.  If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops.  Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

 Step  3:  Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods:
       After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home.  Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.  Give him a command to enter such as, "kennel up."  Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.  After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes.  Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.  Repeat this process several times a day.  With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight.  Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night.  This may take several days or several weeks.

Step  4: Part A/Crating Your DogWhen Left Alone:
After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat.  You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate (see our handout: "Dog Toys and How to Use Them"). You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.  Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact.  Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly.  When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way.  Keep arrivals low key.  Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Part B/Crating Your DogAt Night:
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat.  Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy.  Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.  Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn't become associated with social isolation.  Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.

Potential Problems:
Too Much Time In The Crate:
A crate isn't a magical solution.  If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.  For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space.  Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time.  They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

 Whining:
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate.  If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate.  Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon.  Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.  If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside.  This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time.  If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining.  Don't give in, otherwise you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants.  If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem.  If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

 Separation Anxiety:
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem.  A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.  Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures.  You may want to consult a professional animal behaviorist for help (see our handout: "Separation Anxiety").

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 Aversives For Dogs
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States.  All rights reserved.

 Determining an effective aversive reaction for your dog is definitely a case of trial-and-error, as individual preferences will vary with each dog.  This is often the best method to discourage a dog from a particular action or place, but will seldom work effectively without offering an alternative that is both convenient and rewarding. 

Texture:
You may need to weight the "material" firmly or tape it in order for it to stay put.  To protect furniture or floor finish from sticky substances, attach them to a piece of foil or heavy plastic and secure that with weights or light tape. These are more effective for puppys, small dogs and low-energy dogs than for those who won't let a little obstacle stand in their way.

Indoors:
Shelf paper (sticky side up)

Double-sided carpet tape

Outdoors:
Irregular/sharp rocks, firmly set into dirt

Chicken wire, firmly set into dirt (sharp edges rolled under)

Both:
Heavy plastic carpet runner (pointed side up)

Taste:
Some of these substances may damage furniture or floor finishes, so be sure to test them in a hidden location before wide-spread use.  Except for hot sauce and cayenne pepper, these substances should be safe to apply to most people's skin, however, some individuals may be sensitive to them.

Bitter Apple or similar sprays and gels marketed specifically for taste aversion

Insect repellents, especially those containing citronella or citrus odors (check for toxicity, if it's safe for young children, it's generally safe for pets)

Some hot sauces

Cayenne pepper

Some muscle rubs

Citric odors (colognes, concentrated juices or fresh peels)

Aloe gel

Surprise! Remote Controlled Aversives:
Motion detector that reacts with a startling sound

Snappy Trainer (upside-down mouse trap that's securely taped under paper to avoid contact)

Aluminum pie plate containing water, beans or pebbles—preferably balanced precariously

Scat Mat (very slight electrical shock)

Human Controlled Aversives:
Use these to get your dog's attention, and thereby offer an appropriate alternative.    

Spray bottle or squirt gun filled with water or a combination of water and vinegar (NOTE:  avoid the super-duper water guns that have a very forceful spray)

Loud air horn

Whistle

Shaker can (soda can containing nails, pennies, beans or pebbles—securely taped shut)

 WARNING:  For fearful dogs, try everything else before trying surprise techniques, especially those using noises!

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 Destructive Chewing
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Exploring the world with their mouths is normal behavior for dogs.  Chewing can, however, be directed onto appropriate items so your dog isn't destroying items you value.  Until he's learned what he can and can't chew, it's your responsibility to manage the situation as much as possible, so he doesn't have the opportunity to chew on unacceptable objects.

Taking Control By Managing The Situation:
Take responsibility for your own belongings.  If you don't want it in your dog's mouth, don't make it available.  Keep clothing, shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses and television remote controls out of your dog's reach.

Don't confuse your dog by offering him shoes and socks as toys and then expect him to distinguish between his shoe and yours.  Your dog's toys should be obviously different from household goods.

Until he learns the house rules, confine him when you're unable to keep an eye on him.  Choose a "safe place" that is dog-proof with fresh water and "safe" toys (see our handout:  "Dog Toys and How to Use Them).  If you're dog is crate trained, you may also crate him for short periods of time (see our handout:  "Crate Training Your Dog").

Give your dog plenty of people-time. Your dog won't know how to behave if you don't teach him alternatives to inappropriate behavior and he can't learn these when he's in the yard by himself.

If, and only if, you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, offer him an acceptable chew toy instead, and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.

Have realistic expectations. It's virtually inevitable that your dog will, at some point, chew up something you value.  This is often part of the transition to a new home.  Your dog needs time to learn the house rules and you need to remember to take precautions and keep things out of his reach.

Chewing is normal teething and investigative puppy behavior (see our handout: "Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Chewing"), however, dogs will engage in destructive behavior for a variety of reasons.  In order to deal with the behavior, you must first determine why your dog is being destructive.

Play, Boredom And/Or Social Isolation:
Normal play behavior can result in destruction, as it may involve digging, chewing, shredding and/or shaking toy-like objects. Since dogs investigate objects by pawing at them and exploring them with their mouths, they may also inadvertently damage items in their environment when they're exploring or investigating. Your dog may be chewing for entertainment if:

He's left alone for long periods without opportunities for interaction with you.

His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.

He's a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and he doesn't have other outlets for his energy.

He's a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs an active lifestyle to be happy.

Solutions:
Play with your dog daily in a safe, fenced-in area.  If you don't have a yard, a tennis court can be a good place to play.  Fetch is a great game that will use up your dog's excess energy without wearing you out! 

 Go for a walk.  Walks should be more than just "bathroom time." On-leash walks are important opportunities for you and your dog to be together.  Don't forget to allow time for sniffing, exploring, instruction and praise.

Increase your dog's opportunities for mental stimulation.  Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks and practice them daily.  If you have time, take an obedience class.

Provide your dog with lots of toys (see our handout:  "Dog Toys and How to Use Them").

Rotate your dog's toys to refresh his interest in them.  "New" toys are always more interesting than old ones.

Try different kinds of toys, but when you introduce a new toy, watch your dog to make sure he won't tear it up and ingest the pieces.

Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food.  Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys focuses your dog's chewing activities on these toys instead of on unacceptable objects.

Make your dog's favorite "off-limits" chew objects unattractive to him by covering them with heavy plastic, aluminum foil, hot pepper sauce or a commercial "anti-chew" product.

You might want to consider a good "Doggie Day Care" program for two or three days a week to work off some of your dog's excess energy.

Separation Anxiety:
Dogs with separation anxiety tend to display behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to their owners.  This includes following you from room to room, frantic greetings and reacting anxiously to your preparation to leave the house. 

Factors that can precipitate a separation anxiety problem:
A change in the family's schedule that results in your dog being left alone more often.

A move to a new house.

The death or loss of a family member or another family pet.

A period at a shelter or boarding kennel.

These behaviors are not motivated by spite or revenge, but by anxiety.  Punishment will only make the problem worse.  Separation anxiety can be resolved by using counter conditioning and desensitization techniques (see our handout:  "Separation Anxiety").

Attention-Seeking Behavior:
Without realizing it, we often pay more attention to our dogs when they're misbehaving.  Dogs who don't receive a lot of attention and reinforcement for appropriate behavior may engage in destructive behavior when their owners are present as a way to attract attention – even if the attention is "negative," such as a verbal scolding.

Solutions:
Make sure your dog gets a lot of positive attention every day – playing, walking, grooming or just petting.

       Ignore (as much as possible) bad behavior and reward good behavior.  Remember to reward your dog with praise and petting when he's playing quietly with appropriate toys.

       Make his favorite "off-limits" chew objects unattractive or unavailable to him.  Use aversives on objects that cannot be put away (See our handout "Sample Aversives for Dogs").

       Teach your dog a "drop it" command so when he does pick up an "off-limits" object, you can use your command and praise him for complying.  The best way to teach "drop it" is to practice having him exchange a toy in his possession for a tidbit of food.

       Practice "Nothing in Life is Free" with your dog (see our handout: "Nothing in Life is Free").  This gets your dog in the habit of complying with your commands and is a good way to make sure he gets lots of positive attention for doing the right things – so he won't have to resort to being naughty just to get your attention.

Fears And Phobias:
Your dog's destructive behavior may be a response to something he fears.  Some dogs are afraid of loud noises (see our handout:  "Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises"). Your dog's destructive behavior may be caused by fear if the destruction occurs when he's exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers or construction sounds, and if the primary damage is to doors, doorframes, window coverings, screens or walls.

Solutions:
Provide a "safe place" for your dog. Observe where he likes to go when he feels anxious, then allow access to that space or create a similar one for him to use when the fear stimulus is present.

Don't comfort your dog when he's behaving fearfully.  Try to get him to play with you or respond to commands he knows and give him praise and treats when he responds to you instead of to the fear stimulus.

Don't crate your dog unless he's thoroughly crate-trained and considers the crate his safe place.  If you put him in a crate to prevent destruction and he's not crate-trained, he may injure himself and/or destroy the crate.

What Not To Do:
Punishment is rarely effective in resolving destructive behavior problems and can even make them worse.  Never discipline your dog after the fact.  If you discover an item your dog has chewed minutes, or even seconds later, it's too late to administer a correction.  Your dog doesn't understand that, "I chewed those shoes an hour ago and that's why I'm being scolded now."  People often believe their dog makes this connection because he runs and hides or "looks guilty."  Dogs don't feel guilt, rather they display submissive postures like cowering, running away or hiding, when they feel threatened by an angry tone of voice, body posture or facial expression.  Your dog doesn't know that he's done something wrong; he only knows that you're upset.  Punishment after the fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but may also provoke other undesirable behaviors, as well.

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